
Janelle Graustein
Executive Travel Consultant
Certified Tahiti Tiare Agent, Fiji Islands Specialist,
Hawaii Specialist & Aussie Specialist
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Here is some general information about French Polynesia, her islands, and various other tidbits about travel to the islands. You can find a detailed review of my specific itinerary in my bio and I will speak more to those resorts I stayed at below, but most of the information is unbiased and gathered through hours of research. This is just a quickie research lesson for those wanting to know more before making the big honeymoon or vacation decision!
The two most important things to figure out before you set out to do research on the French Polynesian islands are a) what is my budget? And b) what islands do I want to visit? Once you have these two things figured out, you can begin doing research to decide on an itinerary. The best place to begin your research is the Tahiti Tourism website: http://www.tahiti-tourisme.com/. This website gives a run down on each island, what those islands have to offer, and what resorts are located on those islands. When doing my own research, for example, I found that Moorea did not really appeal to me for a first trip, but Taha’a did, so that helped me narrow it down some (Bora Bora was a given for us). For our second trip, we wanted more seclusion, more relaxation, and the opportunity for some world class diving, so we chose Tikehau and Rangiroa. The third time, we decided on Moorea because we only had 5 nights and it’s the closest to Papeete.
It’s suggested by many that you stick to 1 or 2 islands for a stay of up to 10 days, and no less than 3 nights per island. Of course, if you have the budget and the time for a vacation of 2 weeks, 3 islands would work perfectly in an itinerary. If you are truly serious about going, I also suggest picking up the Tahiti and French Polynesia Guide, 5th Edition, by Jan Prince. It’s one of the best travel guides for French Polynesia out there and it is very up to date since it was just released in May 2008. Once you have the length of your stay, what islands, and what resorts appeal to you, begin getting quotes for your trip from several travel agents.
For my first trip, we stayed 1 night in Tahiti at the InterContinental, 5 nights in Taha’a at Le Taha’a in a beach suite and 4 nights in Bora Bora at the Bora Bora Nui in an overwater bungalow (OWB). Here is a brief rundown what I personally thought of the resorts in Bora Bora:
-Bora Bora Nui: one of the upscale and more expensive resorts in French Polynesia with fancy, top-notch amenities and expansive grounds. It does, however, lack a view of the main island from most of their bungalows and it is also one of the largest and most Americanized of the resorts. It was just taken over by the Hilton group, and there will be the addition of two duplex Presidential OWBs in 2009.
-Hotel Bora Bora: CLOSED for renovations through 2010. The oldest and most well-known resort, it is known for its top notch service and large rooms. This hotel is located on the main island, as opposed to a private motu, so no spectacular view and some of the amenities are across the street (it does not have a pool, though).
-Le Meridien: On the least crowded side of Bora Bora, it has the most incredible view of Mt.Otemanu and one of the largest white sand beaches of any resort in Bora Bora. While there is no snorkeling around the OWBs, the resort has a turtle lagoon near the beach bungalows. The resort is undergoing renovations, which include adding family beach bungalows, which include private plunge pools. The standard beach bungalows are the largest and most open bungalows at the resort and are favored over the OWBs. This resort is also located on the opposite side of the main island from the main village, Vaitape.
-Sofitel Motu: Authentic feel, but with a French flair. The smallest and most intimate resort, the Sofitel has a decent view and excellent snorkeling opportunities. It just underwent renovations to bring it up to more luxury standards, but some of the amenities (pools, restaurants) are located at its sister property, the Marara, on the main island. The Marara is very small and more budget friendly and just recently renovated as well. Its new accommodations look very promising for the budget minded.
-Le Moana Beach Resort (formerly known as the InterContinental Beachcomber) is a 5 star resort that has middle of the road prices. The beach there is second to Le Meridien and the view is good, depending on the accommodations you choose. The Moana is also on the main island, so easy access to Matira Point, but doesn’t give the private feel of a motu. Although many of the bungalows underwent renovations in 2007, the horizon OWBs are going through another overhaul during 2009.
-InterContinental Thalasso Resort and Spa: One of the newer resorts on the island, it opened in 2006 and is built around the premise of the water. It is located just next to Le Meridien. While this resort may be ecologically friendly, it most certainly is not budget friendly. The resort only has OWBs and prices range from a good value for the emerald OWB to quite pricey for the Diamond OWBs.
-PearlBeach: The Pearl Beach is hands down the best value for your money. Recently renovated OWBs are large, yet not extremely luxurious, but are still well-appointed. The Pearl is a smaller resort than most and is somewhat removed from the rest of the resorts and Vaitape, but it has a view similar to Le Meridien. The Pearl does lack a decent beach area and snorkeling opportunities, though.
-Bora Bora Lagoon Resort: another 5 star and less well known, but on the same motu as the Nui. The BBLR has also been recently renovated and most people are extremely happy with their stay there, but the location is prone to boat traffic since it is right across from Vaitape and the cruise port.
-Le MaiTai Polynesia is the best 3 star resort on the island and is a wonderful choice for those seeking to do Bora Bora on a tighter budget. It is on the main island and the bungalows aren’t as well-appointed, but they are clean and well taken care of and the staff is friendly according to those who have been.
- St. Regis Bora Bora: Open since 2007, the St. Regis has brought a whole new level of luxury and service to the islands. Located alongside Le Meridien, it has a great view of the main island and a huge Royal Suite that costs around $15,000 a night! The St. Regis also offers butler service and all of the room categories are at least $1000/night.
- Four Seasons Bora Bora: Open since fall 2008, the Four Seasons is a direct competitor to the St. Regis. Located alongside the St. Regis, it has a great view of the main island and a gorgeous spa. Expect some of the best service at this hotel, but it comes at a steep price. The Four Seasons also allows few lucky people to have fractional ownership at the resort!
The other most popular island destination in French Polynesia is the island of Moorea. Moorea is located closest to Papeete and is accessible via ferry from the main island of Tahiti. None of the resorts are on a motu and the island itself has the most to offer in the way of activities and sight-seeing outside of the resorts. The most expensive resort on the island is the Hilton (formerly the Sheraton) resort and is highly recommended for an OWB. The OWBs have recently undergone renovations in early 2009, with the other categories receiving a face lift in mid 2009. The Mandara Spa there is among the best in Moorea (the couples massage I had was VERY expensive, though!), and the views from the horizon OWBs are simply breathtaking. The snorkeling was out of this world and was better than any other island I had visited up to that point. For a beach or garden bungalow, the Pearl Resort, the InterContinental, and the Sofitel are the favorites. The InterContinental features the Dolphin Excursion, which is the only place to offer such an experience in the islands. The Helene Spa at the InterContinental is also a must-visit, with natural Polynesian ingredients used for treatments. The Pearl Resort is located very close to a village, so it has easy access to markets and restaurants. While the Pearl is the least expensive of the two, and also the smaller resort, it offers a similar experience but without the extra cost. The Sofitel was just recently remodeled and has a very nice view of the main island of Tahiti. While it’s somewhat close to the airport, which may concern some, the beach there is one of the best on the island. Also, the Sofitel has a nice mix of authentic Polynesian charm with flair of French luxury.
Huahine is another island within the Society Islands that is similar to Moorea in topography, but is much less populated and developed. Huahine is considered the most cultural island because it reflects the Polynesian way of life more so than any other island. In Huahine, the Te Tiare Resort is most often recommended for accommodations. The beach bungalows and the deep overwater bungalows are the most sought after rooms, but the resort does offer two tiers of garden bungalows and lagoon OWBs as well. The Te Tiare was taken over by the South Pacific Management group in 2008, and has recently undergone some renovations to bring it up to par with other 5 star resorts. It’s a lovely resort with a nice stretch of beach and gorgeous, lush grounds.
Another SocietyIsland is Taha’a. It is just beginning to hit the travel spotlight with the opening of Le Taha’a Island Resort and Spa. Le Taha’a is a Relais and Chateau Resort and is truly magnificent. There are two categories of beach villas, with the 2 Royal beach villas offering a massage treatment and gourmet meals in the room rate. There are also 3 categories of OWBs, offering views of either Taha’a, the sunset, or the island of Bora Bora. While Taha’a is still relatively undeveloped, it is beginning to be a sought after location for new resorts, including a Raffles Resort and a possible golf resort. The main island itself does not offer much to do in the way of activities, but Taha’a is considered the VanillaIsland and there is some vanilla plantations located there. Another resort option in Taha’a is VahineIsland, which is a 3-4 star, extremely small, and extremely intimate resort. They only offer 6 bungalows- 3 over the water and 3 beach bungalows, all of which have recently been renovated. It isn’t as popular as Le Taha’a, but it is a great option for those seeking a quiet, secluded getaway with gourmet cuisine on a lower budget.
Raiatea, Taha’a’s sister island, is where the airport is located for both islands and is approximately 40 minutes by boat to Le Taha’a. Raiatea is not a popular tourist island, but it does offer some smaller pensions for those wanting to stay there. Raiatea's main focus is diving and hiking, and not so much luxury or tourist amenities. While the well known South Pacific Management group does have a hotel there, the Hawaiki Nui is at most a 3 star hotel that does not have the amenities that other resorts in the area boast, Simply put, the Hawaiki is nice, but in need of renovations. The Raiatea Lodge Hotel is new option that is just a step above the Hawaiki Nui. It has mostly been marketed to European clients, but they are starting to focus on American clientele and will continue to grow as an option on the island. Raiatea is also the starting point for many private boat charters, including Moorings.
While the Society Islands are lush and mountainous, the Tuamotus- Tikehau, Manihi, Rangiroa, and Fakarava- are flat, more desert-like, and much more secluded. The Tuamotus are the most popular destination for diving in French Polynesia and consist of many atoll islands, which are mostly uninhabited. These islands are a great destination for pure relaxation and just enjoying the beautiful water and surroundings, since each island has only one major resort and there are almost no outside restaurants and activities.
The largest of the Tuamotu resorts is the Hotel Kia Ora in Rangiroa. It is considered by many to be the only 5 star resort in the Tuamotus and will undergo major renovations in 2010. The Kia Ora also has a smaller offshoot of the resort, the Kia Ora Sauvage, located on an outlying motu about an hour by boat from the village. The Sauvage is the ultimate in seclusion and privacy with only 5 beach bungalows and no electricity. Both Tikehau and Manihi are home to a Pearl Resort hotel and both resorts are very intimate as well, with 30 bungalows at most. Tikehau is said to have the most concentration of fish in its lagoon out of all the French Polynesian islands, so snorkeling and diving are the most popular activities there. Manihi offers the same experience, perhaps a little more secluded, but the resort is slightly older than the Pearl in Tikehau. Fakarava, perhaps the least known of the Tuamotus is where you will find Le MaiTai Dream. Le MaiTai has received very mixed reviews and only offers beach bungalows, but it’s still a fairly new resort and perhaps one of the better deals for a budget vacation.
Once you have narrowed down your island choices, searching for the best package is the next best step. Of course, that’s when budget comes into play. French Polynesia is considered to be an extremely expensive venture, but can be done on a smaller budget if luxurious resorts aren’t of importance. Most French Polynesia honeymoons average around $8K-$12K for everything for 8-10 days. Of course, you can definitely spend less. What resorts you choose and what islands you choose is a big factor in determining price. Bora Bora and Taha’a are considered the most expensive islands, and the Tuamotu atolls are, for the most part, the most affordable. Moorea and Huahine tend to be in the middle of the budget scale. Of course, all of this depends on what accommodations you choose at what resorts. For example, a horizon OWB at the Hilton in Moorea is around $950/night rack rate, which is the same as the lowest category room at the InterContinental Thalasso Resort. Also, in Bora Bora, you can get an overwater bungalow at the 3 star Le MaiTai Polynesia for around $600/night, but an overwater bungalow at the Bora Bora Nui runs over $1200/night for their rack rates. A lot also depends on the current exchange rate, which can be found on www.xe.com. Finding the right resort/budget combo can be frustrating, but remember you are in paradise, so do what you can afford and you’ll be guaranteed to get a lot for your money.
Also, keep in mind when pricing Air Tahiti Nui flights, those from LAX run around $1K/person and those flying from NYC will pay closer to $1300/person. Of course, there are deals out there from time to time. Adding an upgrade to business class runs around $1900/person roundtrip ($700 one way when done at the airport) and first class tickets run around $3K/person. As one who flies first class often, I found that the upgrade to business class is more than sufficient for a decent, comfortable flight if you are looking for that extra luxury. To me, it is worth the extra money, but their first class is not. The only other airline that flies to Papeete is Air France. I have found Air France to be comparable to Air Tahiti Nui, so either choice is good.
As for food, activities, and souvenirs, expect to pay more than normal since much of their goods are imported from New Zealand. On an average 10 day trip, a conservative amount of spending money would be around $2K. Some resorts, such as the Tuamotus and Le Taha’a, have very few options for food outside of the resorts, and therefore, it’s harder to be more budget minded with meals. We ate three meals a day at Le Taha’a and spent around $30-$50/day on breakfast, $50-$75/day on lunch, and $100-$125/day on dinner, with minimal alcohol. Hamburgers generally run around $18, mixed drinks are usually around $12-$14, and a continental breakfast will run around $30, but offers enough food for two. Meal plans are offered by most travel agents, but not recommended for the more popular and developed islands because there are a lot of local eateries worth trying. Also, meal plans do not include soft drinks or alcoholic beverages. As for activities, a shark and ray feeding on Bora Bora will run around $80/person and a 4x4 jeep safari tour will run around $60/person. Our one hour jet ski tour in Taha’a was around $350. Of course, snorkeling is usually free unless you choose to go on a tour.
Last, but not least is finding the right travel agent. First and foremost, I have to recommend myself, Janelle Graustein, from Easy Escapes Travel, but of course, I don't expect everyone to just stop their search with me (well, maybe in a perfect world!) I would also recommend two of my co-workers at Easy Escapes, Caroline Bracewell and Andrea Duvall. There are a few out there that specialize in Tahiti, and there are larger chain agencies that offer packages as well. After doing tons of research, I have found that each agent typically has a few incredible select deals that beat all other quotes, so choose a few agents to get quotes on 2 or 3 different itineraries. Try choosing the agent who not only gives you a competitive price, but who also provides the best customer service. Paying less is great, but sometimes having questions answered thoroughly and timely is worth the extra money. Also, many agents price match, including myself!
Various other tips:
- Consider exchanging money at the airport once you arrive in Papeete. There is a bank at the airport, along with an automated currency exchange machine and an ATM. The ATMs work well most of the time and you receive a better exchange rate than the currency exchange booth located in the airport in Los Angeles. To figure out how much you need, try to remember than $1USD is roughly equivalent to 100xpf.
-Vaccinations are not required to enter French Polynesia. I'm sure you could get them, but you will not need them. The only thing required for entry is your valid passport.
-Pack lightly. You will be charged for overweight baggage on the interisland flights.
-Food can be expensive, so visit a market on the island if you can to grab some baguettes and snacks. Also, considering bringing granola bars or other easily transported food along with you in your checked baggage. With the American dollar being unpredictable, any extra help in saving money goes a long way.
-Taking the 4:20pm flight out of LAX isn’t so bad. Yes, it adds a night to your itinerary in Tahiti, but you wake up feeling refreshed and renewed in the morning. The best choices for a hotel are the InterContinental or the Hilton.
-Tipping in French Polynesia is not required, but it is becoming more popular, especially on the bigger islands as the American resorts move in. Some places will even leave a sign out on the table reminding you to tip!
-If all else fails when planning a trip due to budget, don’t count out a cruise. Regent cruises offer a decent package and you get to see A LOT of the islands. Also looking into Archipels catamarans, Haumana in Rangiroa, Star Clippers, or the Aranui freighter cruise that goes into the Marquesas Islands!
-Learning a few of the Tahitian or French phrases is appreciated, but not required to get by. The locals like it when you try, and those phrases may come in handy in the Tuamotus since they are more remote.
-When planning your itinerary and it includes Moorea, try to visit Moorea first. It is just a short ferry ride from Papeete (about 20 minutes), so it’s a fast and easy way to start off your vacation.
-To help with budget, and to get an overall experience of the islands, try mixing up your accommodations on each island. So, try an overwater bungalow in Bora Bora and maybe a garden or beach bungalow in Moorea. The overwater bungalows are unique, but some of the beach bungalows are amazing and worth giving a shot.
-If you get a chance, stop at the duty free store at the airport and pick up a bottle or two of alcohol. It will help you save some money if you order a Coke and then pour your own rum into it.
-Island hopping is a great way to see French Polynesia and there are interisland flights that can take you from island to island on a small, 30-seater plane. The only island that has ferry transportation is Moorea, which goes round trip between the island and Papeete. There is also a helicopter transfer available through Le Taha'a from Taha'a to Bora Bora.
-Resorts on motus offer shuttles to the main islands for guest transportation. Each resort offers a different schedule, and some require a fee, so be sure to check with your resort to make sure you make your scheduled excursions or restaurant reservations. All excursions and reservations can be made through the hotel's activities desk, so they will tell you the appropriate shuttle time when you make those reservations.
-Booking excursions ahead of time is not recommended because it forces you to stick with a particular day and time. Booking spa treatments ahead of time at some of the more intimate, exclusive resorts is recommended for the high season.
-French Polynesia is a tropical destination, so therefore, rain can occur at any time. I would not be afraid to travel to French Polynesia because of the threat of bad weather, though. Sunshine is abundant year-round and most rain showers are brief and isolated. It may be raining on one side of the island, but not the other!
-Since French Polynesia is tropical and there is plenty of gorgeous flora, bugs do exist. They are hardly a concern, however. Mosquitoes are present, but in most cases, are not noticeable. In the case that you are a little concerned about the bugs, bring bug spray and an itch stick and keep it with you at all times. While there aren't swarms of bugs flying around, a bite or two can happen and you want be prepared. If you are still unsure, try steering away from a garden bungalow since they are usually surrounded by tropical plants. Again- bugs aren't usually an issue, but staying away from lush areas will help reduce the chance of getting bit.
-While there are beautiful beaches in French Polynesia, they are very different from what you'll find in the Caribbean. So, if you are looking for long stretches of white, soft sand, islands like Barbados and Anguilla in the Caribbean are probably a better bet. The Tuamotu islands offer the best chance to see long stretches of beach, but this is more uncommon in the more popular Society Islands (Bora Bora, Moorea, Taha'a, and Huahine). Most resorts, especially in Moorea, do not have much of a beach at all, but resorts like Le Meridien Bora Bora, the Bora Bora Nui, and the St. Regis Bora Bora do have decent beach areas. The sand is mostly broken up coral (except on the side of Bora Bora with Le Meridien or the Four Seasons), so it isn't finely grained and soft. Also, Bora Bora features the famed MatiraBeach between the Moana Beach Resort and Hotel Bora Bora. However, MatiraBeach is public and not affiliated with any resort.
This is obviously just a broad overview of what to expect when planning a French Polynesia vacation. Any one of our Tahiti specialists would be happy to help you answer any questions you may have! Good luck and happy planning!
Be sure to also visit our "South Ses Escapes FAQ" page for more Tahiti travel tips and advice.